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Before you buy them, try them on your horse. Setting the wire Once the boots are mounted on the hoof and the instep is correctly tightened, as described on the Installing the boots page, the recommended number of straps that extend beyond the ribbon is from 1/2 " to 3/4", as shown in the photograph above. When the tape projects more than 3/4" beyond the bend, as shown in the photograph below, the contacting area of the belt's grip area is thinner.

The distance between the adapter (the glossy aluminium part connecting the cord to the strap) and the side guide block (the projection on the side of the shoe shell, which has two holes) should also be between 1/2" and 3/4". When the tape end point is outside the parameters, continue with the order of wire displacement below.

Note the marking dimples on the trunk and the color dot on the cord. They are your references for hiring. Shifting the wire in the direction of the wire clip shortens the wire length and reduces the length of the tape end and inverse. If necessary, the cabling can be adjusted outwards, even if the colour point on the cabling is hardly noticeable, as it is hidden in the side cabling block.

Use a small shallow head screw driver or other pointed tools to lever out the wire clip just enough to reveal the top as shown below. From the time these pictures were taken, the wire clip has been upgraded with an "easy pry" slot on the open side of the wire clip. For use, just insert the long end of the included L-key into this opening and turn the L-key downwards, which also turns the top of the terminal outwards to reveal the adjusting bolts.

You now have the two adjusting bolts that are used to lock the wires. Avoid turning the wire clip further out than necessary to reveal the adjusting bolts. Use the 1/16 " key provided or a Pro Hex Key to turn the grub screw back approx. 2-1/2 turns, which is in most cases enough to loosen the adjusting cabel.

Keeping the adjusting screw in this way will reduce the chance of loosing these small bolts and will help you saving it. This prevents the wire clamp from being turned back to its initial location and makes it difficult or impossible for the wire to move. It is due to the misalignment between the clamp and the guide rails that can clamp the cabel.

In order to prevent this, it is advisable to fully unscrew the adjusting screw, store it in a bucket so as not to loose it, and to fully return the wire clamp to its initial state. In this way it is ensured that the wire slides frictionlessly and without any bindings. To make things clearer, I trimmed away some of the trunk fabric to reveal the concealed cables and their end.

The two single wires (one from the right and one from the left) that are overlapping at the pin. To reduce the actual length of each wire, reset the end of each wire by sliding the end further through the wire clip or inverse.

You have two ways to move the wires. The first way is to insert an outwardly curved strap into the wire. Then, squeeze the strap inwards, causing the end of the wire to move through the wire-lock. You have to squeeze the adapter and the heel-captivator together again and again.

Alternatively, you can use pincers or haemostats to move the wire. Take care not to apply too much compression or violence, as this can cause the cord to be damaged. Usually the wire only needs to be shifted by one or two markings. When you need to move the cord three or more markings, this indicates that you may need a different sized boots.

If you have difficulty with the wires as shown above, completely unscrew the adjusting bolts and slide the wire clip back to its original location as described in steps 7. When unplugging the wires by mistake, read the page Changing the wires. This is not shown in the figure, but it is best to unscrew the wire clip by 90° so that the adjusting bolts point directly outwards.

In this way it is ensured that the wires lie next to each other in relation to the adjusting bolts, so that the adjusting bolts exert an evenly distributed force between the two wires. Retighten the grub screws by slightly retightening one of them, then the other a little, several time.

This way the cable is laid more evenly under the bolts than it is cranked down in one operation. Make sure that the adjusting bolts are tightened properly. Inadequately tightened adjusting bolts can cause the shoe floor to detach from the Heel Captivator on the way, possibly even never to be seen again.

As you tighten, the resistor should rise slightly as the adjusting bolts touch the wires and begin to compact. Keep going for about 1/2 to 1 turn until you notice that the adjusting screw stops when the wires are almost completely tight. Return the wire clip to its original location.

Now you have completed the wire adjuster, so put the boots back on your saddle and inspect the new harness post.

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