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bitless driving - LightRider bridles
Whilst driving in a bridle without teeth is not seen as often as driving without teeth, there are those from all parts of the globe who do just that and very successfully. Indeed, if you can be-bitless why not driving a biteless, and flashless for that matter! In fact, if you can get b-less, why not driving a b-less, and flashless for that matter! t! It' s customary to get out of the darkness age where traditions dictate that blinders must be used (otherwise it is dangerous!) and strict bit are the standard.
As far as I know, blinders were designed to make it easy to quickly "break" the animal during the period when it was needed for transportation and work. Putting a youngster next to an older mature saddle and putting blinders on them was much simpler and quicker than taking the moment to educate/de-sensitize them for abrupt sounds and movement coming from behind, while they were basically caught in the saddle and in the heels.
Now, relations have become a top concern as we consider the equine sector to be more leisure activities and this has led open-minded equestrian enthusiasts to challenge it. So if we can rid properly and they are so well trained that they are willing to take things like road driving, other animals, other animals, dogs, bicycles and other strange things and noises behind them, then we can do the same when they are being ridden, provided we take the same if not more effort and dedication to them.
Counsel often given to those who are meant to be coach horsemen is to train and expose them first until they are sound. That makes perfect sense, but for those who can't and for those with mini pony riding, a thorough training programme with long rein and stick riding is the next best choice.
It' absolutely sensible to begin a ride or drivinghorse with no bit e- and no flashers, so that the gaps in the workout become visible early, instead of being "hidden" by blinders and a little more. So, is there any different how we train a biteness driving pony? Basically it should be very thorough and take the necessary amount of gel for every single one.
Drivers should be either a seasoned horse-driver who has already ridden or has achieved a high degree of skills with preparatory work such as Parelli Levels 3, where work with the rear side of the rider (Zone 4) is included in the programme. They must also take into consideration that the length of the bridles and the lever effect exert more stress on the rider than when you ride them.
It is therefore best to select a bridle without teeth, which has a nose strap cushion. Begin with brief bridles when you walk next to the horses (especially if they have not been ridden) to help them with the necessary tools and to implement speech instructions. Switching to light rein s, such as long cords made of wool, runs through the webbing ring or terretts, so that the rein sits high at the back of the saddle and minimises "resistance" at the horses heads.
When you do not have a seat belt, you can use a normal seat with very small stirrup, or attach some loops (or even a snaffle) to the front D-rings of the seat to allow the bridle to run through. It may be a better choice for very verdant ponies, as an'open' bridle can give directions.
A lot of ground work in the long rein both in a ring (in an arena) and around the grounds is indispensable to win the horses' confidence in you and to lead them from behind. If you adjust to this it is best to have a snap lock system so that everything that is fixed to the rider can be quickly and easy unlocked when he starts to get scared.
When you do not have wheelchair acces to one of these carriages, select a carriage that is easily towed and driven and make sure that it matches the rider. When training the driving horses, keep in mind that manual assistance is of utmost importance. The majority of riders use a smooth feeling or pulling when they ride or ride with a bridle without teeth, but do this with a bridle without teeth, and your saddle can teach your saddle to rest on it and become heavy instead of reacting to it.
I' ve found that a soft rhythmical compression works best and gives the saddle nothing to it. There is also a rewards (pressure relief) when the rider thinks about it or actually reacts - so they are learning and becoming smoother and more quick. Rhythm can be as evident as opening and locking the whole arm (combined with pulling and releasing the bow if necessary) or as sophisticated as opening and locking the little fingers on the reins.
As soon as the rider safely pulls a car in a trusted enclosed area (large meadow or arena), it is safe to move on. The best way to do this is with a well-trained companion of the rider you are driving, so take a portable riding area.
It could be rode or even by someone who is a good leader, then guided behind the coach pony, especially when that was not much unaccompanied. This is an example of how a'problem horse' was trained to bitless/flinkerless driving and that is what its owners said:
"We' ve tried blinders, but Taz is so curious that she looked around more and more to see everything. Anyway, my basic rule was that I would rather be satisfied with what's behind it than hiding it. Shown at the top of the Three Counties Show, Taz shows how well she does a gauzebo obstruction as a true test of calm and precision - please don't try unless your mare is very well trained and strong in riding, as it could be very simple to pull the whole thing down and create a ship!
Training and a rider who thinks are the two things that guarantee the successful driving without bites and blinders - it can be enjoyable and secure if you take the necessary amount of leisure and enjoys the trip.