Horse Body Brush

Brush for horses

Guide for the purchase of care brushes Finally, it is relatively cheap to buy a brush, comb or the like when you compare it to other products in the stackstores. But, says Susan Harris, writer of the classical textgrooming to win, a little bit of comparative buying fun in effective and economic maintenance can be worthwhile. "I' ve been spending years trying out the care products and considering what is the best choice for my horse, myself and the work I expect from them," she says.

"Correct brush does the work quickly and well. So if you've never thought so much about buying a brush, don't worry: here's what you need to know to choose the best tool for your base care set. Retractable ridges, which produce jammed debris when twisting the grip, are more costly.

Tip: Find a combs that is strong enough to do the work, but not so tough that it will damage your horse's hide. An excellent gum or synthetic material is indispensable for every care set. When they are too smooth, you will not get the right dirt-repellent, dermassaging effect. However, the horse can suffer from extreme hardness of teeths, which can cause inconvenience or even cause the horse's hide to be broken, allowing access to infection such as anemones.

"I use the old-fashioned, heavier gum curry comb with the concentrical tooth centres on most horses," says Harris. "It' I like how they flex slightly in my hands and that the elastic is slightly'sticky', which will help me get rid of frizzy hair. I' ve noticed that flat curry comb plastics don't always do the same.

" Also your horse will probably have a clear preferential attitude. "A lot of dressage stallions just can't stand a tough curve and you shouldn't expect that," says Harris. "When your horse makes a face or grabs or stumbles with every piece of sherbet, he has an honourable grievance. "For the more delicate horse, Harris has a flex-finger model:

They can move the sherbet in a circular motion, but since the knuckles are bending so much, the ends never move against the horse's hide. "Another choice for very delicate ponies is the "pickle gloves" made of natural seal. Harris warned that metallic or even some extreme tough plastics currys can do more damage than good.

As Harris says, the best way to clean a brush is to use metallic currycomb wipers when tackling a mud-covered jacket, she suggests a wiper with a soft brush. Material: synthetics (plastic) or nature fibres (basin, palmyr, paddy roots or Unionsfiber ) Cost: $7 to $14 brush with comfortable handles are usually the more costly one.

Purchasing tip: Concentrate on the brush bristle diameters - this tells you the particle sizes that the brush removes most efficiently. Typical long stems and large diametre rigid filaments, these types of brush are the working horses of a care set. "Brooms only eliminate dust that is as large as the bristles," Harris says.

"For example, stiff bristle cleaners with large, rough filaments are suitable for the removal of dry dust and large amounts of silt. "When buying a stiff brush, consider your environment and the kind of grime your horse normally gathers. When living in an area where baked sludge is usual, you should choose a strong brush with large hair.

When the sludge is less problematic, you can choose a "medium-hard" brush. "We don't want a brush that's rougher than we need because some thin-skinned or delicate horse really does have something against a very tough brush," says Harris. Bristle of stiff toothbrushes (also known as " dendy toothbrushes ") are made of synthetic material or fibres such as basins obtained from palm trees.

"Synthetic filaments are very robust, withstand sludge and can last forever," says Harris. "But I think they are better for polishing the fur, because you don't take good good good care of them - for example if they stay damp and filthy or get kicked. "The handles of the stiff brush are made of either wooden or synthetic material.

Of course, wood will become worn more quickly when subjected to the weather, but many snow cat species favour the traditionally "feel" it has. Another thought is how to attach the brushes to the brush shaft. With mechanically bored toothbrushes, the filaments are stuck into a massive shaft. "In the past there were concerns that the adhesive would crack and the filaments would come out, but some of the adhesives used today will last longer than we do," says Harris.

The handle of wire-drawn toothbrushes is split into two parts in the longitudinal direction. Tighten the filaments and wrap them safely in the first half, then screw or glue the second half. "When you see four small bolts in the tip of a brush, you know it's made of wire," says Harris.

"Wired sweepers last forever, the filaments won't come off. "Wired brushs are usually more costly because they are more difficult to manufacture. When you are looking for a brush that you can use when swimming your horse, you should consider an open backed brush for travel. Keyless bristle is wire-drawn, but the grip has no point.

"Harris says that the paddy should withstand the waters better. "Fabrics: synthetics (nylon or plastic) or organics (tampico, fibre, pork bristles or horsehair) Cost: $2 to $18 The most costly brush is made from virgin horse hair. Buying tip: Keep the brush in your hands to get a feeling for your body mass.

Smooth toothbrushes have the same base form and look as stiff toothbrushes, but - as the name suggests - the hairs are much more versatile. The majority consist of plastic materials or smoother organics with a relatively small cross section. "Since the fibres are smaller and tighter together than a rigid brush, the small debris and dusts are removed by gentle brushes," says Harris.

"Here you can see the horse's fondness. Walk as smooth as he needs. There are even some "mixed" types of brush, such as those made of imperial fibres that have blended smooth and coarse fibres in a salt-and-pepper design. "The long brush hairs of a brush can quickly become blocked with dirt.

"You have to pull them over a metallic curry comb every few strokes," says Harris. "This removes the brushes' dirt into the atmosphere. "The" "Flick" or "Sweep" brush is a very special part of the brush. This brush has long filaments - about half an inches longer than a normal smooth brush.

"They' re meant to get rid of dirt," says Harris. "Smooth toothbrushes can be machine-drilled or wire-drawn like rigid toothbrushes, with wood or plastic grips. One of the best ways to pick from the many choices is to just keep the brush.

"What does the brush feels like? Horse hair is more expensive. Buying tip: The body brushes' filaments vary from moderate to very smooth. You may want to have more than one body brush: an extreme softer brush for your face and your body, with a tighter brush for the other part.

Even though body tufts have smooth filaments, they are easily distinguishable from smooth them. At the beginning, their filaments are much briefer and densely wrapped than those on a smooth brush. The body brushes are usually equipped with ergonomic grips with a belt over the back. This is what determines how a body brush cleanses your horse: "The short, densely gripped filaments extend to the hairline and the skin," says Harris.

That is what makes a well-groomed horse gleam. "The best results can be achieved with a body brush if you use the right technique: After the horse has been cleaned of sludge and debris with a rigid and/or flexible brush, use the body brush in long, even lines into which you "lean".

"Every few blows I like to brush the body brush over a metallic curry comb to free up the captured dust," says Harris. "Best body brushes are made of fibres that help to keep and distribute the oil on the brush. Brushs vary from moderate to very smooth, and your selection will vary depending on your horse's sensibility and where you will use it.

You may want to have more than one body brush: an extreme softer brush for your face and your body, with a tighter brush for the other part. Body brush handles are usually made of timber or synthetic material, but can also be made of genuine leathers. "I' m a traditionalist," says Harris.

"and a sewn top. It bends with my hands and works better over the curved horse's back. I' ve got some of them that are 40 years old and still create fantastic shining steeds.

Tip: Prevent combing with stitches in acrylic or metallic between your teeths - these little burrs cut hair when drawn over them. "When you don't use a well-made, perfect straight ridge, it can saturate the cock with chipped hair," says Harris. In order to assess the qualities of a crest, look for stitches in synthetic or metallic material between the crest toes - these minute burrs tear hair when they are made.

The Harris prefer synthetic ridges to metals. Indeed, the only metallic crest she uses is a small "pulling" crest and only for drawing mands. When it comes to cocks, "if you really want to get every coat of cock, you won't even be combing it," says Harris. Altough if your horse's cock is quite thick to begin with and you have chosen that living is too brief to pick dicks, there are several ways to brush a cock without sacrifying it.

" It is Harris' recommendation to use a pen brush with plain, round synthetic pens inserted into a soft pad. Sprinkle a silicon sprays on the cock before you brush it and let it air-dried. Then start brush-up from the bottom of the dick.

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