Horse Stall Design IdeasDesign ideas for horse stalls
There are a few things to consider when designing your horse's habitat. A 10 foot x 10 foot area is probably enough for the pony and small breed, such as Morgans or Arabs, but for most 15 hand and above 15 handers, the acceptable default is 12 foot x 12 foot. Warm-blooded jumbo-sized mares and draughtraces could be in better keeping in a more roomy setting, perhaps 14 by 14 ft (the prefered height also in many thoroughbred and offspring farms).
When you are planning to accommodate foal fillies or studs, you should have at least a few stands available that are 16ftx16ft. At the other end, thumbnail ponies are perfect satisfied in stables only eight meters of space. When you build stables in an already existent shed, you may have to work within the boundaries of the already available support constructions (e.g. loadbearing wall or beams).
In some cases, this could make it difficult to put the stands in order. For example, look at the width of your centre corridor - you want it to be at least one metre wide so that you can manoeuvre a horse, wheelbarrow and bucket without lacking freedom of movement. This could mean that your stands are more likely to be oblong than quadratic, but that is not the end of the mall.
Many stands are very long and they are lacking in length, and a stable measuring 10 by 14 ft can be very worked. However, unless your horses are seriously on the tight side, do not try to make your stands smaller than 10 ft - or they will have difficulty turning around, laying down and standing up without being thrown (trapped on their sides with their legs against the walls and no way to get a buy to recover an erect position).
More is better in relation to the headroom, both in relation to the horse's security and in relation to airing. A ten -foot floor is seen as an absolute minimal (and could be anything to be hoped for when you build a stable in an old barn). Raising the blankets further minimizes the chance of a horse hitting his mind when he panics and also provides better air flow over the top of the stable walls (which in most cases only need to be about two metres high).
Raised ceiling also means that cabling and lights are more out of the way - although of course you should consider how you will replace these bulbs when they hang 14-foot high! The majority of planners agreed that stable door widths should be at least a metre when accommodating draught-horse.
If not, your horse runs the danger of hitting a shoulders or hips every entry and exiting, and this can quickly cause the handler to be overrun by panic-horse to anticipate the pains! They may like the classic look of Flemish style entrance gates that sway out into the corridor (never into the barn - if a horse were thrown against the gate, you would have no way to help it up), or they might favour slide gates (which are generally more costly and sometimes a bit quarrelsome but much simpler to manoeuvre); bigger companies, such as large pension or farming estates, often use the latter because it makes it much simpler to move a mower and a dung distributor into the aishway every morn day for dunging.
Barn door tends to be more abusive than the remainder of the barn layout, so make sure they are robust and select a trap that is "horseproof" and has no hazardous projecting rim. It can be as easy as a pen slipping through a borehole, or as complex as the gravitational locks fitted to many "prefabricated" door systems.
Also consider whether you want to give your horse the opportunity to get in touch with its neighbours and with you by constructing partition walls that do not reach from the ground to the roof and open at least part of the front of the stable (with a gateways or doors).
Equi-Master, a Calgary, Alberta-based company that design and build stalls, says: "Ninety per cent of our clients say when asked for the first time they want rigid partitioning. I always suggest that they give their horse the opportunity to talk and just be a horse. and treating them like captives.
However, a horse with an open design is much luckier. In Europe, where the partition walls are often only five foot high, we know that. "Even the most demanding sires, according to Dombkowski, can get used to the touch with their stable mates and, within a few short working hours after having lived in an open stable, can no longer argue with their neighbours or stretch out to passers-by.
Foal stables are an exemption from the recommended split. The foal filly will feel much more secure if she has some intimacy in front of the herds and the imaginary carnivores - so in a foal stable you should stabilize the walls up to a maximum of about eightft.
While Equi-Master provides different kinds of stable front and partition walls, Dombkowski's favourites are the panelling in Europe, which not only has relatively low upper parts, but also front parts, which he described as three-sided in the form of a combs. "They don't run in rectangles, they run in curves," he notices.
" If your stands are made of timber, steel, concrete blocks or wickerwork depends on your budgets, your climates and the appearance you choose. Timber is of course the classic option and readily available throughout North America, but it has its drawback; it is not scratch-resistant and hard to sanitize (which could make it a bad option for foal stables, for example).
Moreover, according to Dombkowski, wood (one of the most hard-wearing and horse-proof woods) is becoming ever more costly and costs three time as much here in North America as in Germany. Inefficiently stable wood, such as pine or pine, is less costly, but also cannot withstand repetitive punishments by a horse.
Dombkowski provides a wood blank coating with galvanised sheet metals, which increases the shelf life and prevents horse biting. Remember that a motivation for a conscientious stable clean! Dombkowski says powder-coated steels should be prevented, as a horse can scratch the colour off slightly with its own dentition and make the material susceptible to soiling.
Correctly galvanised steels can stand almost anything a horse can do. For example, welding wire mesh, often used for the upper half of a stable to ensure vision and aeration, can be a death pit when a horse gets a leg between the staff. A lot of people make the error of believing that a horse cannot catch a horse several meters above the floor - but they can and they do!
If a horse gets into this position, a one-piece grille will not come loose and the resulting fight could turn out to be a kill. When you plan to use metallic grids in the design of your stables, select a grille with rods tightly fitted (Dombkowski suggests a tube with a minimum of 1 in. tube and a distance of no more than 3 in., from centre to centre - or 21-2 in., from centre to centre, for foals); or walk with tightly fitted wire grids instead.
Stone pens are robust and easily disinfected, but are prone to provide a cool area. A barn of this type provides maximal view (e.g. if you want to keep an eyes on a spreader) and air flow, but it tends to let bed linen run out of the barn and into the passage.
A relatively new type of materials for stable front and partition walls is propylene, commonly known as "plastic sheets". When the horse hits them, they lock together in a way that does not come loose, but can be taken apart and driven if necessary. To allow six to eight exchanges of fresh breeze per hours in your stable, which is the least that can be recommended by equestrian breathing specialists for good horse wellbeing, you need to place intakes ( where cold and warm fresh breezes enter) and outtakes ( where warm breezes exit) throughout the entire house.
They will be placed exactly according to your weather and topography and the wind conditions, so that they can land in the sales stands or perhaps only at both ends of the property. It is also possible to place the door and window in each barn to use the maximal flow of ventilation (remember that ventilation and draught are not the same!).
When living in a warm, damp part of the globe, you may want to add extra ventilation slots about two metres from the bottom of the shed ( "a particularly good place for foal stables" as the foal does not get much out of the ventilation through the window high in the walls). The circulation of fresh breezes is crucial not only for your horse's breathing system, but also for your own.
What kind of floor covering do you select for your stands? No matter what you use, it must be non-slip, have good drains, be robust enough to withstand misuse (including the casual horse with a penchant for excavating craters), forgiveness on the horse's extremities, and easily mucked up and cleaned. It is relatively smooth (and therefore ideal for a horse to lay on), but not quite as easily cared for as it seems at first glance - because if your floor is not exceptionally well drained, you will end up with marshy areas in which pee has collected through the scatter.
In order to prevent this, excavate a drainage area in each barn - make a 3 foot wide perforation with enough depth to achieve a well drained earth bed (usually a few feet), fill the perforation with large lumps of pebbles, stomp it tightly into position and then coat the perforation with debris to create a flat area.
As an alternative, you can also place a 6 to 12 inch thick coat of finely graveled or stony powder under the entire stable bottom. You can also put your carpet on a soft gradient (maximum three degree - no more stress on your horse's legs) from front to back in any stable or in a nook where you can create an outflow.
"The best base for a dirty base is "baseball diamond", as it only needs to be worked on about once a year. Tightly wrap with a powerful percussion hammer or a motor-driven "settler", hold plenty of fresh tap and a little bit of fluffy sound at your fingertips to regulate the texture of the ground as needed.
When a dirty floor just doesn't work for your plant, you might want to consider something tougher, like cement (thick, but cool and very hard on horsehair limbs and smooth as well, unless you structure it with a rougher finish when you water it), woods (easier on your horse's walk, for example,
When you need to install a tough surfacing such as cement or tarmac in the stables (as is the case with a farm and you need to be able to scrape and sanitize the stables from top to bottom), you should consider using the use of elastic mats to pad and deep cover the ground to make it more pleasant for your horse.
Not to mention your own problems when you are constantly feeling in the darkness, the horse is intuitively scared of closed, darkness - so it is important to make your stable look light, breezy and cozy. Integrate many yard doors into your barns for a particularly sun-drenched atmosphere. If you are installing them in your stables, however, place grids or grids on them to avoid your horse getting in touch with any kind of glazing, or use Plexiglas or other non-breakable mat.
Do not let your stable enter the room; use slide doors or have them open on the outside of your stable. As an alternative, you can give each stand its own doors to the outside; this layout also serves as a gate and access to your paddock.
Of course, all electric cabling in a stable should be surrounded by a metallic tube to prevent it from predators from animals and cats. A chewing pin has the power to slay a horse and torch your stable in one go. If you are not an electrician, cabling is a part of the construction work that you may want to outsource to the profession.
Exercise extra caution with any cabling that penetrates a horse's stable; being bored is often the dam of catastrophe. When it comes to interiors, your options are as diverse as your on-site fodder warehouse or saddle business can offer; just remember that you want as few protruding areas in the barn as possible.
Another common choice are angle loaders, but remember that cleaning becomes harder when you are installing a loader on a permanent basis. Select a saltblock support that has no clear edge when empty; you never know when a saltblock crumbles in the midnight.
Usually you' d rather eat grass on the floor or in a net, but if you want to set up a haystack, select one with sticks that are so broad that a horse can't catch a leg and place it so that the grass is not above your horse's heads (a place where particulates and dirt can drop into his eye when he eats).
Remember that if you opt for the use of stainless steels as a construction materials, it may be very hard to fit fixtures later, so that you want to integrate all your bagpipes into your initial design. It is a question of your personal preferences whether you opt for the installation of automated irrigation systems or buckets.
You need to regularly inspect them to make sure they stay in good condition, and it is a good practice to provide each with a seperate shut-off device to decrease the likelihood of a swamp. Pail casting is the more labour-intensive way (especially in winter), but has the benefit that there are no movable parts and makes it easy to control your horse's absorption of mud.
You can attach hangers or perhaps a ceiling stand to the outside of your stands. "A horse running free in the hallway can stumble upon anything that sticks out and hurts."