Leather Western Saddles for Sale

Western saddles made of leather for sale

Acoustic saddles are made of durable leather or light, easy-care plastic. It is cleaned and conditioned from top to bottom to ensure that the leather is soft and supple. All used Western saddles including Circle Y, Billy Cook, Big Horn, Tucker, Barrel, Trail, Endurance, Gear and more. Schabracke en feutre profilé en feutre de travail du cuir Weaver. The saddles are available on the market at reasonable prices.

Production of a nut

First, you have to remove the nut. Every part of the nut has a certain place on the skin from which it must be removed to maintain the proper equilibrium and texture of the nut; i.e. the rig from the same place and heading on every skin, skirt, jockey, swelling and so on.

Every piece is moistened and covered over night in woollen rugs; this is known as the "cover" of your leather. Woollen rugs let the leather breath and distribute the moisture evenly through the leather until the texture is right. Next is the floor chair. Naturally, the bottom of a calf or a cowboy calf nut is different from that of a cleaner, cutting or rope tack.

Once the grinded fit is formed and well dry, it is grinded to give it a clean surface. Then, the coats are placed with care, making sure that they are the same on both sides. The leather is sewed in to prevent the skirt from rolling up and is then formed into a boom to maintain good rapport with your horses.

Jockey's are attached to the boom and then trimmed in line with the skirt to give the nut a symmetric, look. Headquarters are next. The centerline is very important to keep the balance of the rider's post. Centring of a crucifix on the floor as well as on the leather seating.

Leather has been correctly "cladded" to remove creases during shaping. Draw the seating line so that the front jockey is just with the back jockey, pull the front yoke out and pull the harness over the top and rub it in. It is designed to be comfortable to hold when gripping.

Engravings are embedded in the leather of the bindings so that they do not wear out so slightly. Like all our tools, we pull them directly onto the leather and give each nut an unmistakable look. Glue the leather centerpiece to the bugle, then nail it with ring shaft pins and glue the upper part.

The seam is embedded in the leather to prevent the seams from being rubbed and worn. When the leather has been sewn, we trimming it, rounding the edge and smoothing it. When the leather is correctly covered, we completely wipe out the mudguards and stirrups and then cut them evenly again.

Then we turn and wind the stirrups before pulling them down to relieve the strain on the knee and thighs. When we take off our coats to attach the sheep' coat, we make a hole through the wood, jockey and skirt. Then the cords are tied through the skirt, and the fleece is stuck on and can be sown.

Every single item is lubricated with a thick layer of clean neatfoot seed oils; more seed oils are added over several nights to give the nut an even appearance. We then apply leather crème to the coats and stirrups to avoid squeakiness. It can be done with mat fur, lateigo or chaps.

The leather is stretched with each winding around the bugle. It often needs to be re-wrapped several re-wrapped to maintain all the elongation, then smoothened and tensioned with a chin-belt. Ultimately, the end result is one we can be proud of because we know we have done everything we can to make a top of the range seat that will last for years.

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