Light Horse HarnessEasy harness for horses
It is our aim to supply you with a good, high-quality harness that fits your horse and is stable enough for virtually any task you require it to perform. Like all wiring looms, some servicing is necessary. Please visit the Harness Care Products section of our website. Bioplastics and granite - what are they?
It is made of synthetic or rubber-coated polyamide to protect the harness and make cleaning easy. It is this proces that makes these fabrics 20%-30% thicker than leathers. However, we still like to use some leathers in conjunction with these items in heavily stressed points to help the horse.
In terms of appearance, Bio Plastic has a high lustre, while Granite has a matt finishing formulated to imitate leathers. Bio-plastic and granite harness comes with Beta line, a supple rubberized polyamide for a leather-like feeling, while our harness comes with genuine leathers.
Section 5. Cable harness and saddlery. - Australia Association for Light Horses
Harness test. ii. Seams should be inspected thoroughly to determine that no part is yielding and that they are shallow, even and knot-free on the part of the harness which comes into direct physical contact withthe pet's anatomy; striking, rough or tied seams may result in severe wounds and gall. iii.
In general, the places where the harness is likely to be worn are the seams, the places where various belts, tracks, etc. are attached. It is possible to estimate the harness's life and the amount of work it has done quite well by observing the amount of abrasion that has been caused to parts subject to metalwork.
Caution is advised when using all items from crockery and upholstery. The seams should be checked from period to period as the service live of a yarn is shorter than that of genuine Leather. The stirrup straps should be replaced on occasion or cut at the end of the strap to avoid wearing out around open eyelets.
Belt webbing requires particular care and must be replaced if the hole is worn. Fractures or damage to crockery and tools shall not collect and shall be repaired as soon as possible. Uneven areas on the side of the torso or throat collar, fools, panels and supports that can lead to gall must be eliminated.
Conservation of leathers. Seat saddles, hatches and gun bins that need to be kept rigid should be very easily synchronized every year, but sprayed with a little bit of detergent. After first moistening the hide with a damp pad, rub the Dubbel (warmed up in colder weather) slightly with the pad or broom; after two to three working day rub it off, and then polish the hide well with a broom or towel.
Do not wash leathers with sodium carbonate or soak them in mineral wool. Very sparing use of soft lather is recommended as it contains an excessive amount of alkaline and the skin becomes black. Scrubbing leatherwork is seldom necessary. Pieces affected by the horse's perspiration, such as the inner surface of the chest collar, straps, etc.
Fire desiccation of leathers will destroy their permanent characteristics and is prohibited. Crockery and saddler's parts can be made more resistant and a brilliant color will last much longer by preventing as much as possible the wash in tapwasher. Therefore, during scrubbing, leather work must not be soaked in soap.
Bee wax and nut lather detergent, which is often used in services to burnish the graining of leathers, are not harmless, provided that good detergent is used to keep the leathers softer. All saddleries should keep their leathers smooth and smooth. Keeping the belt smooth with fat is particularly important.
Tear all your harness and harness into small chunks and check them well. One or two times a year certain parts, e.g. the inside of closures and chest collar, should be synchronized, whereby the skin was first dampened with a foam. Before storage, all leathers should be synchronized and reconditioned from period to period, especially in warm or humid climate zones.
Saddlecloths, panels and numbers should be left to drip in the light of the day or the breeze, then whipped and brush. Blackened saddler leathers require more maintenance than browns. Quick repair can be carried out as long as all parties involved pay close and careful heed to the state of the saddler and harness.
Importantly, the equestrian serviceman understands the need to immediately take note of any repair that may be necessary to the saddler and harness at his expense, no less trivially it may appear. Every rank should also be thoroughly impressing by the fact that parts of an old harness, etc., have been used in the past.
are very useful for repairs, and they should be designed to recover all decayed and damaged wiring harnesses. - Each officer, N.C.Os and driver shall have a thorough understanding of the principle of adaptation to the harness types used in their unit. Sattel - specification and fit. - The front and back bows are made of stainless stell; the front bow is the knob and the back bow the mantle.
At the back of the bow is a coat with a bucket - in each design there is a loop to hold a thong. Side stirrups are the part of the seat that sits on the horse's back and to which the front and back bows are attached, thus spreading the rider's load on the animal's back.
Wooden side poles are produced with a rotation corresponding to the back of the animals. The form is chosen in such a way that there is a gentle curvature at the front and back, both upwards and downwards. The part of the side rail protruding in front of the seat is the "burr"; the protruding part behind the seat is the "fan".
On the side rail directly behind the front curve there is a stainless rod with a roll through which the ironing wire goes. - The side arms are equipped with removable number plates, the side arm ventilators fit into the back plate pocket of the number plates and the "burrs" into the front plate pocket, which are distinguished by the safety band and clasp.
Every bag of cowhide matching the compartments is stitched with a piece of bronze to take the belt of the shovel of the gun, etc. It is the aim of the numernah panels to provide additional upholstery without having to fill the canal of the seat, to shield the side arms and to create a finish that grasps the ceiling and prevents the seat from sliding.
- The " V " top piece is composed of two belts (the front and the back belt strap) which join the welding valve to the side rail of the seat and meet in " V " form on the welding valve to which they are attached by riveting to a small sheet of bras. With the help of these girths, the positions of the two girths (which are attached to the welding flaps) to the remainder of the seat can be adapted to the body shapes of various beasts.
There is no possibility or requirement to adjust the position of the back belt, the top part of which is rivetted to the side rod and the bottom part to the welding tab. Welding flaps consist of an elongated section of cowhide to which the belts of the'V' top are attached and to which the belts are stitched.
It is used to prevent the webbings from being filled with perspiration and thus dying, and also to keep the side of the pet away from the belt clasps. This is the part of the nut on which the horseman is sitting. Manufactured from cowhide hide, the harness seats the front and back of the horse, which are joined together by a strap; this relieves the load on the hide.
It is the cover on the sides of the seat, made of genuine hide and shaped to adapt to the flexion of the rider's leg when his foot is in the stapes. Climbing strap is the holder for the stapes. At one end it has a clasp and at the other end it is stamped with adjusting apertures.
It is made of stainless steal. Upper is semi-oval with a slit at the top through which the stapes pass. This belt is made of a simple 2 in. broad bracelet which tapers towards the clasp to a width of one ct. On the other end a band is stitched one inch wide with bend hole.
- The circumference of the bridle can vary in length from two to six inch to three toes. They are made of cowhide or corduroy, with divided holes. At each end there are two clasps to keep the belts in place. There is a three-inch strap stitched into each end through which the strap passes before being attached. i. The scruff must not be crushed or pushed. ii.
Do not exert excessive force on the horse's spinal column. iii. Ridges and compartments should not carry any load. vi. The seat should lie horizontally on the back of the horse, neither plunged front nor back. A saddler should be present on all saddle-proof Paraden, since a small professional chamfering of the side poles can often substantially improve seat form of a nut.
Saddles come in three different size and to make the right decision, the naked nut should be placed on the horse's back so that the front bow is over the cavity behind the skull. Bows and seats should then be free of the spinal column, although this is not always possible for a horse with high rests.
Subsequently, the nut is removed, equipped with Numna panels and exchanged. Note that the use of a cover will reduce the width of the front curve and narrow the seat over the top of the side poles. Fold the cover (section 53.1) and place it on the back of the horse on which the boom will be placed (section 53.2).
Now the straps are lifted up and a man is put in the seat. It is only possible to determine the correct fitting of a nut when the nut is checked with a man seated on it, because parts which appear to be clearly removed from the back without weighing in can be moved closer to the nut in a dangerous way by the force of the man's own body mass.
When there are difficulties introducing the palm, the nut does not work. Under the assumption that the horse's front legs can find their way in, they should be fully pushed forward by an assistent. It should be possible to do this without the examiner's finger getting caught between the scapula and the side arm, even if the man is leant forward in the seat.
By squeezing the finger, the shoulders are also squeezed, and the nut must be lifted by placing larger panels of nuts on the side rail or by making an additional pleat in the ceiling. When the man leans back in the seat, the shallow wrist under the ventilators should find easy access.
Half an hours of riding, the nut is gently grazed and raised from the ceiling without upsetting it. It bears the impression of the side arms and an investigation shows at a single look whether they press evenly from top to bottom and from front to back.
In most cases, where excess force is detected, the upper side of the side rail is behind the front arc and the lower side is in front of the back arc. When at these points a lower impact is made on the ceiling than elsewhere, the force is not evenly spread and the corresponding part of the horse's back receives too much of the load.
For a horse in good shape, or with a good rug or nana, this may not necessarily cause a back soreness; but it will certainly be the case if the horse loses its shape or the rug or panel is thin, as these circumstances move the horse's bone structure closer to the trees.
This can be done in silence with adhesive, but on the pitch they may need to be attached, or better said, with a patch of hide (basil) that surrounds the side rail at the desired location and can be strapped over the top with a cord.
For a horse of regular form and physical fitness, the following procedure called "double folding" is recommended: - doubling the length of the rug, then again laterally. Then it should be laid longitudinally over the horse's back, with the edge of the edge on the opposite side and on the back.
Collapsible ceiling can be altered to adapt it to specific horse needs and to withstand a change in form due to falls or other reasons. For a horse that has dropped off in its original state and for certain back forms, a sensible technique is the "channel fold".
Each end is then turned upside down and pleated towards the middle (two or three pleats can be taken as needed to fit the horse's back, keeping one canal in the middle). At one end a crease of two legs is then made; the other end is turned over and forms a bag into which the other end is put; it is then placed with the thick end near the back of the horse's waist on the back of the horse.
Front of seat should not point so far forward as to interfere with playing of shoulders. Horse fairings should rest flush on the horse's fins, with the rider's body mass carried by the part between the fore and hind forks.
Front bow, when filled panels are fitted, should free width at waist not less than two finger when horseman is in nut. In order to provide a proper fit for the driver, the caliper should be flat, not submerged at the front or back. He should be so firm that the nut stays in place, not narrower.
We recommend that the straps of all but young and adolescent stallions are fastened with the clasp in the second or third holes from the free end of the thong. Mount the brackets to the seat as follows. Insert the end of the stapes lighter through the flat irons, then through the rod on the side rod of the seat from the bottom, inside out, and then attach to the tab of the clasp.
Raise the clasp near the pole at the side pole, the tip of the stapes lighter went from the front under the two skins and then under the belt. - Normally the seat is positioned with the clasp in the center of the three - 6 1/2 inch holes from the fastener; this location fits a very large number of horse.
In the case of an animal with rectilinear shoulder and which carries the nut too far forward, the front girth should be cut by folding in the lower opening; in the case of an animal with low chest on oblique shoulder and thick in front of the nut, the front girth should be extended. Under no circumstances is it carried as a real "V", i.e. the front and back belts of the same length; this would press the obstructive part of the seat and cause other problems.
In any case, make sure that the near and far belts are strapped into the corresponding openings. Place the wings with the knob of the nut with the hollow side of the connector facing forward. You should guide the purse belt from behind through the back clip of the seat, then through the holder of the purse, next to the front clip of the seat and lastly strapped, with the tip of the belt pointing backwards and the clasps coinciding with the front of the purse.
On the opposite side, the near shoebox that holds the frozen bird is fixed to the back arc of the seat, with the circumference passing through the retaining belt, which should be long enough to allow the blade to swing upright. Design and fit of the turtleneck.
- It is designed in such a way that it can be used either as a harness or as a headband in the livestock buildings and on the strike line. This is a small patch of cowhide made of two straps that join the cheeks and the cervical spine at the tip of the harness to the animal's pollen.
Browband is made of a hide ribbon with two eyelets at each end through which both the cheekpiece and the eyelashes go, and over these eyelets there are the flaps, small hide ribbons attached to the headband with a rivet of bronze thread inserted into the eyelet of the headband through which the bridle head runs.
It is the aim of the headband to avoid that the cheeks and the neck lashes slip backwards. At one end of the rectangle, the cheeks consist of a stitched noseband binding the noseband and holding the back together on the opposite side. On the other end it is provided with perforations for attachment to the clasp of the bend part.
One end of the belt is attached to the angle connecting the noseband and holding the back together, but at the opposite angle to the angle holding the jaw part. There is a clasp on the bend fitting to which the jaw fitting is attached.
In the contracted state, the jaw section and the knee joint hold the noseband and the back in place. Cervical spine is made of a simple hide string with a clasp at one end and a perforation at the other end for adjusting. Neck vertebrae secure the bridles to the animals heads.
Noseband and backrest are two pieces of synthetic material, joined by two squares. The lower ring of the jaw part is on the back. This cheek piece is made of a small length of synthetic material with a ring stitched to each end that connects both the cervical spine and the backrest.
At one end of the long length there is a clasp and a stick of hide to attach it to the teeth and at the other end there are hole to adjust it with the long length. At one end of the shorter part there is a clasp and a truncheon to attach it to the teeth, and at the other end there is a clasp to hold the long part.
There are two designs on the reversable chisel made of stainless stell (Fig. 6), one with a flat nose and the other with the nose "twisted" on one side, of which there are very few. It is the strap at the top of the string through which the stick of the bridle head passes.
Top, middle and bottom rods are the ring and slits through which the reins' truncheon is guided. Portmund and cannon nose piece is the stainless rod that connects the jaws of the teeth. Rectilinear parts are referred to as cannons; the curve in the middle is referred to as the harbour estuary, the aim of which is to give the horseman more leeway on the animal's lips if necessary.
- The headband should be just long enough to allow the cheekpiece to go down from the crest without grinding the skeleton on either side of the temples or trimming the basis of the horse's ear. Jaw and bend part. - The jaw and bend should be positioned flush with and behind the protruding cheekbone.
- The neck vertebrae should be loose and close enough so that the neck does not slip over the horse's ear and does not interfere with respiration or ingestion. It is a good guideline to keep the width of the palm between the eyelash and the horse's cheeks.
Belt clasp should match horse's eyes on opposite side. - The noseband and back brace should be positioned to allow the width of two fingerings between the horse's front nostrils and the noseband and between the horse's maxilla and the back brace.
Noseband and back brace should be suspended so that two fingerbreadths are under the protruding cheekbone. - Braidoon (for reconstitution training) should contact the corner of the lips but should be low enough not to crease. Place the teeth with the flat side of the rod against the tip of the horse's throat.
If the lower cheek is pulled back at approx. 45 degree to the lips and the kerb necklace is lying level and really in the jaw slot, the mouttpiece is placed properly between these borders. Correct length of the kerb and correct positioning of the moutpiece depend on each other and on the sensitivity of the horse's jaw.
In general, the smoother the mouth, the higher the piece should be, and the firmer the mouth, the lower. In general, the "greener" the mouths, the longer the kerb should be. It should be taken into account that each horse has a little the right height. The horse's lip is pinched by a small piece; a broad piece travels from side to side and squeezes it, causing irregular compression of the staff.
Figures 7 and 8 show ports with and without ports and show a section of the horse's mouth and lower mandible. Therefore a little with a flat pole has a completely different effect on the horse than a little with a single harbour. i. Earlier horse education. ii.
Horse spirit. iii. Therefore, the greatest possible attention should be paid to providing a horse with the best fitting mouth-piece and, when a piece is used for the first time, to ensuring that its grip on the reed is not such as to cause the horse to pull its reed over the piece.
Doing a little with a very high harbour is difficult because the harbour pushes on the top of the mouths when it is used. This effect is reinforced by a narrower nose strap and can be made gruesome, preventing the horse from opening its mouths. Use of a very small or very high harbour should never be permitted, except in exceptional conditions and for particularly good riders.
If you use a glide rail, make sure that the horse's lip is not trapped between the cheeks and the pole, as the hole in it has become too large due to use. Bridles should be long enough to contact the rider's tail with a slight sense of the horse's jaws when fully supported in the centre by the horse's full right arm.
Kopffix should be attached by leading the end from the outside through the lower ring of the cheek part, then through the ring of Kopffix and from the outside over the horse's throat. Kopffix is then fixed with four full turns and two half turns and set so that the front of the turn is a width of the palm from the lower ring of the cheek part.
This is only necessary for a horse whose physique is such that the seat slides backwards all the time. It should be applied so that the top of the rose or hide is three fingers above the sternum. Vertical Martingales should only be used for unusual martingales.
For a horse that inherently bears its skull so high and whose heads and necks are so poorly laid out that it makes no trouble to avoid the dentures by lifting its heads. ii.
A horse that is poorly educated and has learned to avoid the teeth by raising its skull. A horse that has evolved the practice of jump with a concave back because it is scared to face its part or because it rides poorly and is placed in the lips.
An erect Martin Gal, by stopping him from lifting his face, can heal this by making him turn around his back and leap back into a better game. Make sure that the vertical Martin ingale is long enough so that it is not loaded until the horse has brought its horse's neck over the correct posture.
Recovering a horse that makes a fault on a railing doesn't bother unless it lets its back feet fall into a trench or stream. i. To help keep a horse level, such as horsebacking on a railing. In order to make sure that the draw of the rein on the horse's jaw goes in the right way when the horse moves his hand into the incorrect notch.
When used with a twin reins, it should be placed on the kerb reins; this ensures that the traction on the bits is from the correct angle and does not affect the effect of the horse char when the horse's horse is placed. Do not use it to keep a horse's skull down, which is the legal use of the vertical Martin.
When used for this reason, it will interfere with the proper effect of the rider's hand on the horse's snout. Since, with the right fit, it secures the train on the dentures from the right angle, no matter how high the rider's hand is, it tends to carelessly handle the rider's stance and should therefore not be admitted to the equestrian training centre with recruit on qualified horseback.
This should be placed so that it does not affect the bridles as long as the rider's hand and horse skull are in the correct positions.