Mini Western SaddleWestern Mini Saddle
Assembling a Mini-West Saddle
1 ) Take your rock and one of your quadratic jumping ring with you. Stick the ring to the back of the rock on three sides. Ensure that the bottom of the jumping ring matches the bottom of the skirt. Make sure that the bottom of the jumping ring matches the bottom of the skirt. Trim out your front RCA posts and stick them over the top of the quadratic crack on the back of the saddle for extra hold.
2 ) Next you take your saddleboom ( should be sharpened and finished ) and we will make the forks and the bells. Pick up your clevis and push it gently with the shorter side towards the driver over the horns. Spread a large amount of adhesive over the whole of the esophagus (underside of the fork).
Unfold the part over the front and back of the forks. Once you have dried, cut off the surplus scraper on the sides and cut the side of the sitting area with your Exacto blade so that the scraper ends where the sitting area begins. First glue on the lower flange and let the lower flange dried, then roll down the lower flange and roll the edge of the upper flange over the lower flange to join the upper flange.
Centre the flange rest on the seating side of the flange and wind both sides forward. 4 ) Place the back of the cabinet behind the saddle and stick it in place. Ensure that you have a firm fit where the saddle boom hits the rear edge. Cut the surplus from the top of the cape so that it is the same size as the canopy.
5 ) Next, take the coat and stick it to the back of the saddlepole. Ensure that it is correctly centred and stick it in place. Stick one on each side of the "V" in the front part of the coat so that the back of the mudguard is straight with the back of the "V".
Just glue the small part of the mudguard. Grab your first bolt and fasten a bolt belt. From each end you must ski on the last 1/4 inches ( removing a thin coat of leather). A side on the incomplete side (raw side) and the other on the completed side (opposite sides of the same belt).
Stick the end of the tape on which the final side is curved to the middle of the final side of the stick tape at the top of the tape. Wind the stick tape around a sling on the unfinished side of the stick and stick it to the peeled part of the opposite side on the finish side of the stick.
Moisten the final side of the stick and stamp six evenly spaced 3/32 inch slots to allow the tension clasp to be inserted neatly. When you don't have a stroke, you can use your big pin to pierce your hole. Reinsert the bolts by sliding them upwards through the bolt hole in the saddle with the strap on the back and then reinsert the bolt downwards through the strap to lock it in place.
Grab the rest two squared cracks and slice a small slice of the peel skin in the width of the clasp and about 1/4 inches long. Locate the open side of the jumping ring and roll the thin skin around this end. Bond and lock.
Once you are drier, cut off the surplus peeler at the sides and use your amateur blade to trimm the side of the peeler so that it ends where the sit starts. Skin prevents the snout from ever sliding through the opening in the jumping ring. In order to fasten the switch, open the loop gently and push it onto the side of the crack that is covered with cowhide.
Place your clasp on the back RCA part. Wrap the hide and stick it. At each end, insert tension belts so that the strap is on the final side. 9 ) Trim a single sheet of junk cutter twice as wide as your back pawl. Stick both sides of the peeler together.
Stick the skiver in the center of the rear RCA on the unfinished side. 10 ) Glue your back yoke to the saddle boom. Ensure that you have a tight seat on the rear casing. Fasten the saddle boom to the rock by aligning the stick hole on the back yoke andockey.
Moisten the raw side of the coat and the final side of the Jockey and form them into a naturally shaped shell and adhesive. Make sure you stick all the way from the back of the rock to the front of the esophagus. 12 ) Cut out your seating and adjust it to your boom.
If you are sticking the saddle, begin at a front edge and stick a small area at a stretch, making sure the buckskin lies flush on the boom and close to your saddle. Ends should stop at the deepest point of the fit. Stick on and let dry. Put pencils directly through your stamped perforations and through the skirt and out through the bottom of the skirt where they are indicated on the Cheyenne scroll design on each side.
Trim the edge of the cylinder so that approximately 1/2 inches remain on the underside of the sleeve. Grab a plier and turn the post so that it rests flush on the bottom of the canopy. Place your shell bolts in the 4 residual hole in the back and seating shells.
Prior to placing the cones in the cushion hole, puncture the Latigo bracket and cable bracket hole. Either ribbons or D-rings can be added to the rear conches. To attach ties to the rear shells, slice thin stripes from your garbage cutter or hide twice as long as the desired ties and stick the shellstick through the center of each binder before threading it through the rear yockey and the skirt.
Skiiver both ends on the unfinished side. Gluing and letting drying. Put the bracket on the small part of the mudguard and unfold the mudguard section to the rough side. Grab your limpet belt and fasten it around the pleated wing belt to keep the bracket in place. Avoid the clasp pointing to the inside or outside of the saddle so that it is not seen.
The length can be adjusted by sliding the bracket up or down on the mudguard wire. In the middle, pleat each item and pleat it. Put one of your 1/8" D-rings on the peeler and glide down to the pleat. Stick the two sides of the peeler together. After drying, cut the free end of two of them so that it is round to look more appealing under the shells on the rear Jockey.
Raise each sitting yoke and insert it between the sitting yoke and the skirt. Make sure that the yoke is in the correct position. 16 ) Slice your replica woollen upholstery with the lower rock design. He will be greater than your saddle; that is all right, for we will remove the surplus after gluing and drying.
Apply a large amount of adhesive to the middle part of the saddle, work outwards and make sure it does not get too thick at the sides. Let the whole saddle air-dried and cut off any surplus material from the whole saddle. The finger nail clippers are well suited for cutting around the lower rock.
17 ) Take your latigo girth and pleat one end around the front quadratic jumping ring on the saddle's l.h. side that overlaps about 1/4 inch. Peeler side should face outwards. Width of the mudguard to which the bracket is attached).
Insert the trimmed end between the two bits of hide and the adhesive. Polish the edge for a final look before using the pencil if you like. You' ve got a saddle ready now. It is recommended to use a top layer like Tandy's Super Shene surface to give the surface protection and a light sheen.