New English Saddle

English New Saddle

Leather balms, leather creams, hydrophans and neat foot oils are all readily available to help your saddle "penetrate" through conditioning. Breaking into a new English saddle. Although new saddles are clean, they can be uncomfortable for you and your horse during the acclimatisation phase.

Penetrating a new English saddle: 11 paces (with pictures)

Be sure your seat belt matches. Good girths on a new saddle are slightly longer than when the saddle shrinks when the sticks are stretched. Use a belt that is fastened with the belt locks just below the appropriate location during the training time ( one or two openings under the centre stick pocket on the near and rear sides).

The best thing to do is to crack a saddle with an older kit of well-maintained stapes. Brand new leather is coarse on saddle covers that have not yet been retracted to hold them. Don't drive your saddle when you take it home. It is best to buy your saddle in summers when the temperature is so high that you can fully crack the saddle with a horsewalk.

Climb up your saddle and make sure that your circumference is adapted and that the clasp of your stapes is raised to the stapestick. Never put on a waterproof coat that will cover part of the saddle. Drive as normal for at least one hours. Take great care of your riding, especially your posture and your fit.

Begin with your hangers set in the location where you drive the most. Cut or extend your hangers to the other length you use once your saddle is fully satisfied. Drive at the same speed in all seats after the saddle has been soaked by the rains. REVIEW YOUR BODY SIZE REGULARLY! Truncheons expand the most during the first trip.

Once you've finished driving. Apply a layer of glycerine to the open grain leathers. Cover the top of the saddle quite thick and turn it over. A lot of detergents contain alkaline (pH-rich) ingredients that harm the skin; due to the natural retanning processes, the skin is slightly sour. Handle the bottom of the saddle as described above.

Apply hot neat foot lubricant to the lower hatches (which come into direct line with the horse) and be careful not to lubricate the side that comes into direct line with the animal. Lubricate in very thin layers with a mild towel or foam. Continue until the lubricant no longer penetrates the skin, then remove any surplus and allow to harden for at least 24h.

After a while, it penetrates the skin and can absorb more oils after hardening. DON'T PUT TOO MUCH FAT ON THE SKIN. When overoiled, it becomes too smooth and tender, which reduces the service it has. We do not recommend oiling any part of your saddle with smooth leathers, in some cases the rollers, pads and often the saddle pad.

On request it is possible to slightly lubricate the flat side of soft leathers on the top of the jacket and top straps. Truncheons can be washed with glycerine. As an alternative it is possible to lubricate the sticks slightly, following the same directions as for the saddle flaps only.

Polish the upper part of the upper hide with a smooth Flanelltuch. It should be darkier, smoother and more shiny than when new. Leave the saddle to rest for 2 to 3 day before using it. Inspect your circumference very often and use a short one if the sticks are stretched and the straps get too high.

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