Snaffle Bitbridle bit
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I' ve tried to get them to use snaffle bit instead of lever bit like Thom Thumbs and KP to avoid security problems because of the horse/rider combination I see. Some of the ponies are young, half-green and high-headed. Some of the horsemen have illiterate palms and are prone to using their rein for balancing.
I start to see snaffle pieces with curbs and curbs. Occasionally the harnesses are above the bridles, so that the bridles snap into place when the harness is pulled back. As I asked why they use the belts, I found the primary response just because other will do it, but they don't know what it' s for.
In my own way, my own experiences with westernriding tell me that the primary cause of a harness is that the bit is not drawn through the horse's lips when there is no cape bridle and the mouth of the saddle tends to gawk to avoid the pressures of the bit. Susan, there are many splendid things you are asking, and I welcome your attempts to put things in order for the security of your horsemen and for the well-being of the animals you are influencing.
Let me start with the use of the kerb belt with the snaffle bit. You' re right that the kerbstone band only comes into the picture on a lever chisel; the kerbstone band will never snap into place on the snaffle (direct-force chisel). It tends to be broken along the British and West routes because British horsemen consider it ridiculous to have a kerb belt on a snaffle, because it seems to serve no function at the snaffle, since there is no "kerb action".
The snaffle is from a westerly point of views a snaffle, which is only used with young, verdant steeds; as soon as the steeds have matured and are "finished" in their education, a kerb bit is used (this is better for one-handed riding). These ready to handle ponies are called "bridles" because they are well enough to be able to handle a full set of bridles with one hand and very little bitterness.
That is the end outcome of westerns practice, while some British ponies will stay in the snaffle forever. When you use the bridle exclusively for colt foals, you know that you will sometimes use a great deal of traction to lead the foal in a certain way, and the kerb belt is there to keep the teeth in the middle of the horse's muzzle.
This is not an asset you should have with a well-trained youngster, which is the view of most Englishmen, as they are not designed for a cold start. A novice can also grab the jaws of a horseman and put more force on the teeth than is necessary, so that the kerb belt can also help here.
The kerb straps on the bridle therefore serve to compensate for the teeth in the horse's jaws, regardless of why you need this equilibrium. Do not use a kerbstone necklace; it only brings along undue load and sound; the necklace (unlike the belt) does not exert the strain on the bridle jaw as in a cramp.
When it is only a matter of keeping the chisel in the centre, you should use either a belt or only a string to join the two chisel collars. You' re absolutely right that in many cases a snaffle is more secure than a kerb, and if someone has a problem exercising with a saddle, it's not often the answer and will usually make things harder.
If you use a kerb belt on the bridle, it should be fastened to the teeth ring under the bridle, whether the sad fact is that the sad fact is that the saddle or the sad fact that the bridle often lacks both. Recall that its sole function is to adjust the bit in the horse's jaws, so its setting should be without stress between the teeth' ring, but it should come into play when one side of the bit is removed from the regular teeth alignment positions.