What to Feed my HorseSo what should I give my horse?
Evaluation of body condition
Balance horse nutrition is one of the most important components of horse possession, but due to its complex ities it is often missunderstood or even ignored. No matter whether you're the only one taking care of your horse, or whether you depend on the pension personnel to help you, you should have a fundamental grasp of the right horse nutrition to ensure that your horse is at an adequate nutrition level.
When you need help to develop a nutrition that meets the needs of your horse, your vet, grower and/or prolongation professional can be a great help. We have asked four horse dieticians and nutritionists for their best nutritional counseling for this paper. Equestrian horse lovers should familiarize themselves with the Henneke Body Condition Scouring System, which varies from 1 (emaciated) to 9 (obese).
Next, you need to know how much your horse weights to be able to calculate how much it needs to feed and what. If you do not take your horse to a sufficient size establishment, such as a vet hospital or a business, you must estimate its approximate mass with a band.
Formulas vary according to whether a horse is a young growth horse, a draught or young growth horse, a breast-feeding or expectant mother, a hard job, low body mass or obesity. The general computation for the medium lightweight horse race, however, is: "A weighted band that is placed slightly close (you should still be able to place a few finger under the band) around the highest point of the waist around the circumference will give you a plus or minus 50 pound estimation," Williams says.
Performing a bi-weekly test should take into account all changes in your weights. Weigth, together with your height, training level, weather, physical state, reproduction level, horse types (e.g. lightweight), etc. all influence a horse's need for nutrients and energies - the amount of calcium, proteins, fats, vitamines and mineral nutrients it needs to ingest.
The Top Equine Nutrition Do's and Don'ts" byline= "Sarah Évers Conrad "]Our four springs provided their Top Do's and Don'ts for horse feeding: Before you add cereals, maximise the feed in your food. Feed not by bulk, but by mass. Feed your animals straw in an automatic feed machine to minimise waste, which can be up to 50% when straw is on the floor.
Be careful about the chopping order when you feed in a group so that a truck doesn't get most of the feed and a servile horse has almost nothing. When you feed in a group on a meadow, place feed bins in a circular pattern at least 30 ft apart to make room for each horse.
Place an additional cereal bin if you are supplying food to a group of four or more people so that the devote horse can move to another bin if necessary. Make slow changes to a horse's nutrition over a one to two weeks interval. Feed crops on the basis of the actual active ingredient content and adapt it if the active ingredient content changes.
Feed cereal mixtures that have been specially developed for the horse. Feed labelled for equine human consumption must be appropriate to satisfy the minimal dietary needs of the horse species indicated on the labelling. Don't be worried about too much fat for a horse to get over. Do not feed food additives unless they are needed. Bid as much as possible of this residual amount as you can with other feed such as straw, and then just supplement cereals when your horse needs them to cover its diet.
Lawrence Laurie, a PhD student at the University of Kentucky's Department of Animal Sciences, says that home owners should recall that grazing horse feed is changed due to the unavailability of pastures. When a horse is used to being on the field all the time, Hoffman says that the horse must feed the horse progressively with any additional grass and/or cereals.
This also applies to the return of the horse to the pastures in early summer and in autumn after a frost: You should do this slowly as the amount of sugars in grass increases during this time, which can in turn raise the horse's chances of developing colitis or robin. Coleman warned that the free supply of high-quality straw in supplement to grazing could surpass the nutritional needs of some equines.
It advises the owner to inform himself about the nutritional substances that different feed species have. Grasheu usually provides all the energy the "average" horse needs. Equine breeders all have their own preference for hey, but Coleman says that his first option is a mix of lucerne and grassland that can meet the needs of many different horse categories, from cultivation to horse power to older age.
The Williams prefer a Grasheu, which corresponds to the needs of a horse in the care, which contains 8-10% proteins and an appropriate content of Vitaminen and mineral. Whatever your choices, you know how much yeast you feed by your body mass and not by your body size, says Williams. Volumetric fodder feed of straw (e.g. two flocks per feed) can lead to discrepancies since flocks can have different weights.
Your horse need grain? If your horse does not get all the nutrition it needs from the feed, then you may need to include a concentrated feed in its nutrition. Lavrence added that high grade commercially available animal foods usually contain sufficient quantities of vitamin and mineral content for the horse category specified by the labels.
Here, too, the rule is: Feed by ballast unit. "Once you've received a commercial sweetened food and taken a close look, it's likely to contain some pellets," Lawrence states. "Often these granules contain the nutrients in the food, especially in vitamin and mineral supplements. These pelletized materials are often called " balancers " because they are used to maintain a nutritional balance in the feed.
A number of feed manufacturers are selling this kind of product alone and call it a 'ration balancer'. When a horse gets all the energy it needs from the feed alone, a small amount of the dietary balance ensures that it also gets all the mineral nutrients and vitamin supplements.
Concerning the cereal choices, Hoffman proposes that horse lovers select a commercial blended and weighed cereal concentrates instead of using base cereals such as grass or trying to blend their own feed to conserve a few dollars. If you don't have the help of a dietician, there is a good chance that you'll end up with a food that doesn't offer a healthy diet or that your horse will need to consume more of to get enough nourishment.
"The general policy when it comes to cereals is to get what you are paying for," Lawrence added, proposing that you need to buy a feed in the medium to above-average price bracket to get the best equilibrium between costs and high-value nutrition. "The horse ration should contain 1.6-1. 8 grams of salts per kg of dried fodder.
" Because of their large sizes, a horse needs to absorb a large amount of body fluids to keep its body working normally. Ripe, medium-sized horse will be drinking 5 to 10 gal per diurn. Naturally, the amount of moisture a horse needs is multiplied by various natural causes such as movement, temperature, humidity, perspiration, gestation or breast-feeding, and the amount of grass it consumes is sometimes up to three or four times as much as before.
Ensure that your horse always has free contact with lots of clean drinking tub. "A horse usually drinks two litres (half a gallon) of drinking soda for every kilo of straw it consumes," says Williams. Dieticians also suggest that horse ration should contain 1.6-1.8 g of salts (sodium chloride) per kilo of dried food (which food would weight if all humidity were removed).
The owner can supply extra salts by a mix of one third pure or simple salts applied to the feed and two third freely selectable amounts of drycium Phosphate (e.g. a rock of salt). Thus also equines can cover their need for phosphorous and minerals, since these minerals are not contained in traces of minerals.
When you are new to horse nutrition, consult your vet or horse grower to make sure his nutrition contains the nutrition he needs.